Waterproofing kit for showers and wet

Waterproofing kit for showers and wetrooms

Building Adhesives Limited, manufacturers professional tiling grouts and adhesives, highlight growing popularity of wet rooms with their updated, all-in-one pack, 'Waterproofing Kit for Showers'.

BAL highlights all-in-one simplicity of waterproofing kit for showers and wet rooms Building Adhesives Limited, manufacturers of BAL, the UK's leading brand of professional tiling grouts and adhesives, are highlighting the growing popularity of wet rooms with their updated, all-in-one pack, Waterproofing Kit for Showers

The changes have been made to emphasise the simplicity of the system, which provides a complete, easy-to-use waterproofing solution for internal wet-area floors and walls prior to fixing of ceramic tiles

BAL, tile adhesive and grout, has further enhanced its reputation for pioneering product development following a recent award for 'Best new innovation' at the prestigious TTA Awards.
Each carton contains all the products required for the job: BAL Prime APD, Polyester Tape and Matting, and BAL Waterproof Coating.

Reduced and clearer text on the redesigned box is complemented by the inclusion of a new in-kit leaflet with straightforward step-by-step instructions.

Kay Porter, Head of Marketing for Building Adhesives notes that demand for new shower installations is as strong as ever, for both practical and ecological reasons: " Increased density of new housing, space more and more at a premium, the rising trend of single occupancy accommodation and the water-conservation lobby encouraging us to take a shower rather than a bath - in effect, they're all promoting showers".
"But, for anyone having a shower or wet-room installed, the key question is how to ensure it won't leak into adjacent rooms".
"Our system can be trusted to make the walls and floor fully waterproof - and applying it is as simple as painting".
T
he Waterproofing Kit for Showers system is ideal for power showers and wet rooms because it is flexible, seamless and waterproof, and can be used in areas where some movement may occur.
It has already been proven in industrial and commercial environments as well as residential applications - and is supported by a 10-year guarantee.
Further information is available from Building Adhesives on 01782 591123.

Do floor tiles drive you dotty?

Good Morning

Think this article from the USA may give you some dotty insperation:

One simple floor design technique that can really add life and punch to your room, while remaining a classic layout is adding “dots”;. This can be simple or very detailed. Another name for this installation technique is called “clipped corners”;. This installation technique can be particularly effective when the style and design in the rest of the room is quiet, simple or without a lot of other patterns.
There are many different ways you can add these dots.

Tiles laid on the diagonal with dots in the intersection of each tile.
Tiles laid on the diagonal with dots in the intersection of every other alternating tile.
Tiles laid out with dots with the addition of a border around the perimeter of the room.
Field tile that is laid straight. In a clearly defined area, most likely the center of a room, laid out with a border that created an area rug. The center of this area rug can be laid on the diagonal with dots in each intersection or every other intersection.
There are many different tile sizes that can be used for dots as well as ways to achieve “dots”

1×1 tiles (works best with tiles at least4×4)
2×2 tiles (works best with tiles at least 6×6)
3×3 tiles (works best with tiles at least 6×6)
4×4 tiles (works best with tiles at least 12×12)
6×6 tiles (works best with tiles at least 12×12)
Mosaics that can create custom sizes or standard sizes like 3×3, 4×4 or 6×6
12×12 natural stone pieces cut down into custom sizes or standard sizes like 3×3, 4×4 or 6×6

Areas in your home that “dots” can be used:

Complete floors
Accents in floors
Showers
Tub Surrounds
Backsplashes
Accent areas in backsplashes such as behind the stove or sink
Wainscoting
Color combinations that are attractive uses for dots or clipped corners:

Solid color field tile and same solid color accent dot
Solid color field tile and different color accent dot
Solid color field tile and patterned accent dot
Field tile with natural stone accent dot
Light colored field tile with contrasting dark accent dot such as black dot and a white floor or cream floor and dark brown dot
Darker colored field tile with contrasting light accent dot such as a black floor with a white dot or a dark brown floor like emperador marble with a crema marfil or travertine dot. (shown below)
Solid floor tiles with decorative accent tiles.
Accents can be created from natural stone, glass mosaics, glass tiles, metal tiles, ceramic tile, decorative ceramic tile or porcelain tile.
Keep in mind that the installation cost is usually higher due to the amount of work it takes to cut each tile that receives dots. If the dots are created by cutting other tiles, this can increase the labor costs even more. The uniqueness that this pattern provides is well worth the additional labor costs.
For other installation patterns, Happy Floors has a great source on their website. You can enter the size tiles you are working with to ensure the size tile lays out properly with the dot you’ve selected.
A great visual resource for trying these designs out is on the WFCA website’s Virtual Room Designer. Here you can choose different tiles in different room applications.
Happy Designing! Get Creative!
Go to source web page: Floor Talk! » Ceramic Tile / Natural Stone

How to clean floor tile grout

Keeping Floor Tile Grout Clean

Tiles are the easiest surfaces to clean in your house due to their durable, non-porous nature.

However, what about the concrete mixture in between your tiles? This grout is which unless it is properly and permanantly sealed at the time of installation is porous, which means it is not stain-proof or waterproof.
If this material becomes tarnished it can ruin the entire look of your flooring, countertop, or shower.

Perhaps you used a dark coloured grout which can hide the blemishes for awhile. Or maybe you did protected it with a special sealer, which can prevent against dirt and stains for quite a long time before needing another application. However, there is no avoiding the truth: it has to be cleaned occasionally in order to restore the original appearance of your tile surface and keep the installation germ free
.
What ever precautions you have taken cleaning the grout is something you have to do at least every every year to keep your floors looking good. The most thorough way to clean grout is to hire a professional who has the proper high-powered steam cleaning equipment to tackle the job properly, alternatively most hire shops will rent out siutable equipment. The use of high-pressure water vapor to clean grout is the ultimate solution. These machines remove dirt, grease, and stains while avoiding the use of harsh chemicals which can harm your floors over time. Plus, this process also provides a deeper grout cleaning by removing mold and mildew, therefore leaving your grout not only sparkling, but sanitary as well.
Household cleaning solutions can be used for smaller areas or light stains, you may you decide to do this job yourself. If so, you'll only need a few household tools. Wear a sturdy pair of rubber gloves and buy a small brush that can get in between the tiles (often a cheap toothbrush will do the trick). The real dilemma comes when deciding the best form of grout cleaning solution since there are several theories out there about which makes for the best cleaner. You can be creative by using baking soda with a small amount of vinegar in it. You can use bleach as long as you have extra-light colored grout. But the safest answer is to buy special pH-balanced products from tile supply companies that ensure against discoloration. You may want to consult a professional about what would work best for your particular tile. Depending on whether the surface is ceramic, porcelain, or brick will determine which type of solution will work most effectively with the least amount of damage. As these grout cleaning solutions can be a bit strong, lay down a protective cloth over unprotected areas (like nearby carpet) and open a window to circulate the air. First, pour the solution over the surface and allow it to sit for several moments. Then, with your toothbrush, scrub the areas in between the tile as thoroughly as you can. Finally, wash away the solution with fresh water. Afterwards, this clean grout may appear stain-free, but make sure it completely dries before coming to this decision: wet concrete is dark and can hide remaining stains. Let it air-dry and then come back to the area later to see if blemishes still appear; if so, repeat this process until they're totally removed.

Ceramic Tiles – Green, Clean and Great Value

When you think of style and innovation in home decoration, perhaps you do not automatically think ceramic tiles?

Many interior designers are now moving towards the extended use of ceramic tiles in new exciting and innovative ways.

Traditionally the ceramic tile has been used only in bathrooms, kitchens and in a limited way in semi outdoor locations such as conservatories.

The demand for "Green" building materials is however gathering an unstoppable momentum and the common ceramic tile will soon be appearing in unusual locations and some surprising formats throughout the home.

Ceramic tiles have a true "Green" pedigree made entirely from natural materials in an age old process. They are recyclable and biodegradable. Even allowing for the energy used in their manufacture, their durability and longevity in situ makes them a really energy efficient product.

Energy recovery is quickly being introduced into the Worlds tile production facilities and leading the way Pamesa Ceramica have built a new factory in Recife, Brazil. Incorporating ground breaking new thermal heat recovery systems with emission capture far in advance of current Kyoto Protocol recommendations. With a rigorous cleaning and recycling regime in place the factory is setting new industry standards of environmental excellence and as by-product of sensible upfront investment Pamesa Ceramica, Brazil are now producing high quality ceramic tiles with a much lower energy element resulting in great value for money tiles.

Ceramic tiles being naturally waterproof and mould/mildew resistant are a perfect surface for floors and even walls in areas used by people with severe allergies.

Thanks to new developments in digital print technology ceramic tiles are now being produced in an infinite variety of styles able to accurately mimic the likes of white padded leather, fabrics of all colours and types and quickly gaining popularity wood grain floor tiles replicating most types of wood flooring. For use anywhere in the home, but particularly useful where heavy wear or moisture would make a wood floor impracticable.

New on the market and particularly impressive in contemporary kitchens are ceramic tiles with an intriguing metal finish, now available in a number of different metals.

If you would like to learn more about these new ceramic tile finishes visit the home of the Spanish Tile Manufacturers Association: http://www.spanishtiles.info/

For further information on the great value ceramic tiles now available in the UK from Pamesa Ceramica, Brazil visit: http://www.tilesuk.com/ and for online purchases the new: http://www.tileandtoolstore.com/

Valencia Tile Exhibition

Valencia Tile Exhibition 2008

My first ever visit to the Valencia Tile Exhibition CEVISAMA 08 Artechnology now in its 26^th year and with over 1000 businesses on show.

First impressions; it was big! First thoughts; wear comfortable shoes next year. With over 250,000 square metres of display place over three floors and six halls, a satnav devise would have been useful.

As a pure observer on this occasion being neither a buyer nor a seller the whole occasion has been some what surreal. First of all English is perfectly acceptable as a mode of communication, which was just as well as there were UK buyers everywhere. Secondly food and drink seemed to be available to anybody and on any stand at any time.

Everywhere eye catching tiles were displayed in sumptuous brilliantly lit settings, though I must say I did hear frequent comments of "didn't I see these in Bologna?" from the show going regulars.

Most interesting items from my unpractised eye were the kitchen floor tiles that commented on your weight problems whenever you approached the refrigerator, floor tiles that clicked together for installation without adhesive the demo looked fast and simple and could be ideal for those folk that like the idea of taking the floor with them when the move house. Certainly adds new meaning to the saying 'tiles are forever' or should that be 'diamonds are forever' and last and definitely least the floor tiles that operated a bit like lateral lava lamps with a layer of coloured glycerine trapped within the tile that moved when stepped on.

My favourite stand; definitely the Pamesa Ceramica stand, probably the biggest in the show with lots of new tiles on display, the delightful though very popular Clare and food! Whatever time of day I retreated to this sanctuary a new hot meal was available together with cold beer and rather strangely cold coffee + lots of cakes.

This stand was also the best place to meet other English visitors, was it the pull of the food or the quality and value of the tiles?

Conclusions:

• Tiling living room walls is on its way
  
• Ceramic tiles are far from dead
  
• Porcelain tiles continue to evolve
  
• Mosaics are being replaced by scored grout able tiles
  
• Packs of mixed size tiles are selling well
  
• Packs of mixed surface finish tiles are coming
  
• The Chinese manufacturer's stands were strangely empty? and I put on 3 lbs in weight

Keep Your Tiler Happy

Keeping your Tiling Contractor happy

Having large tiling jobs done in your bathrooms and kitchens, two of the most frequently used rooms in your house is always going to be a massive logistics problem and great inconvenience. Especially in the case of your bathroom the most private area of your home. It therefore important to realise that there will be times during the project when you may become frustrated that these essential areas of your home are off-limits for quiet a considerable time while. Try to keep in mind what the finished product is going to look like and remember that these days of inconvenience will be well worth the end results. Also, remember that without the hard work and skills of your contractor, the years of enjoyment you'll get from your newly tiled bathroom or other project, wouldn't be possible.

On a more practical note, because your tile installation could take up to a week or more. It's important that you take in to consideration the needs of your tiler, if the whole bathroom is being refurbished it is not only yourself who will be “inconvenienced” (no toilet facilities) and whatever arrangements you make for yourself should be offered to your tiling contractor. Also in these circumstances providing a source of water where your contractor can find a glass of water or fill his bucket is something every considerate homeowner should do.

Keep in mind as well that working with mortar and grout can be very messy work. Letting your tiling contractor make use of a sink or hose to clean themselves off and wash off equipment are a few small things you can do to make sure you're doing all you can to help the job progress along without a hitch.

Other Helpful Tips

Think ahead and make available other aspects of your home that your tiler could need to have access to during the project. Point out to them at the beginning of the job where the electrical outlets are what the options are for cutting off water if needed so they don't have to search your house for them when the time comes. Also, think about where your contractor can store things such as tools and materials. For the majority of your tile installation the work area will not be a place where things such as tiles, adhesive, and the necessary equipment can be stored. Find another place in your home, preferably close to the work area, where your contractor can keep these things close at hand and remember that boxed tiles are by nature very heavy to lift and move easily.

Good communication is the key to any successful business relationship, including those between yourself and your tiling contractor. Never be afraid to talk to him about any issues that might come up during course of the tile installation and always talk with your tiler regularly about how things are progressing and whether there's anything you can do to help make their job easier. Also, as with any relationship business or pleasure, remember that it's important to voice your concerns in a respectful manner.

You don't need to pamper your contractors he can only drink so much coffee and chocolate biscuits are fattening, but do keep in mind that nothing will endear you to your tiling contractor more than surprising them now and then with a special treat. You'd be surprised how things as simple as a plate of homemade biscuits or a cup of tea is often the difference between a tiler just doing his job and going the extra mile to please someone who clearly appreciates his hard work.

How to replace a broken tile

Replacing a broken ceramic tile

Ceramic tiles are among the most attractive and durable floor coverings and, when properly installed and maintained, they can last a lifetime. But as tough as they undoubtedly are, tiles just are not indestructible. Anyone who has dropped a cast-iron casserole or even heavy can of tinned food on a tiled kitchen floor is well aware that the fire-hardened glaze on tile can chip or even crack. Any manufacturing defect or the flexing of an inadequately strengthened subfloor can also cause tiles to crack.

All of which means you will probably during the lifetime of your floor have to replace a broken ceramic tile. The good news is that this is one job the average do-it-yourselfer can handle himself. All you'll need are a few common tiling tools and materials, and a portable drill with a good masonry bit.

Removing the old tile

You will need to remove the cracked or chipped tile without damaging any of the others. Work carefully, be patient and, above all else, do not lever against any of the surrounding tiles. It is a good idea to stick gaffer tape or similar to tiles around the cracked tile for added protection.

First, wearing safety glasses and work gloves use an electric drill fitted with a 5mm masonry bit to bore a series of holes diagonally across the cracked tile from corner to corner, being careful to avoid drilling beyond the thickness of the tile. Believe me you will know when the drill is through the tile, if in doubt mark the drill bit with the tile depth. Space the holes no more than 20mm apart.

Next, split the tile along the holes using a 10/15mm wide cold chisel and hammer. Don't try forcing the issue by hitting too hard on the chisel or you'll crack all the adjacent grout joints. Make several light taps until tile fragments pop loose. Remove loose pieces and pry up any remaining pieces. Then carefully remove any surrounding grout remnants.

After clearing away the damaged tile, take a stiff-bladed scraper or your cold chisel and scrape the old mortar from the subfloor. Don't worry about removing every last bit as long as the surface is fairly smooth and there is sufficient depth to fit the new tile with space for the adhesive, place a tile in the hole to check. Then vacuum up all loose dust and debris.

The replacement tile

The hardest part of tile repair could be finding a replacement tile that matches. First, check your garage or garden shed, there might be the odd box or even a few loose tiles left over from the original installation, if there isn’t make a note for next time you carry out any tiling, hang on to any spare tiles. If you completed the original job without a single whole tile left over, you deserve a medal for efficiency so don’t chastise yourself. If you don't find any, take a piece of the damaged tile to your local tile dealers to look for a match. Don’t give up if nothing is found a large established tile distributor like Tiles UK Ltd, website: http://www.tilesuk.com/ may help you out if you ask them nicely. Remember though that finding/selling a single replacement tile is not good business for any tile shop.

If your floor is old, finding a matching tile could be impossible. Manufacturers will often discontinue old patterns and colours as new ones are introduced. Unless you're willing to live with the damage, choose the replacement tile that comes closest in colour and texture.

Matching the new grout to what is already there is also important - the wrong colour will make the repair stand out, even if the tile is correct. Go to a larger tile outlet and ask to see the all coloured grouts that they stock, buy the smallest bag available and ask if this can be returned if unopened, better still enquire if they have a grout colour chart that shows the different colours, compare it to the existing grout and pick the matching colour.

Laying the new tile

Spread a 5mm thick bed of tile adhesive onto the subfloor; be sure that the entire area is covered. Next, rake the setting adhesive with the notched side of your trowel or applicator. Lay your new tile into the fresh adhesive; when it is centred in to the space tamp it down carefully using the wooden end of your hammer handle. Be sure to let the adhesive cure at least overnight before treading on the newly laid tile, placing something light but colourful on top of the tile during this period is a good idea. A child’s soft toy would be good, but do explain why teddy is sat in the middle of the kitchen floor.

When the adhesive has set mix your grout with water in a small container. Its strength and colour are affected by too much or too little water, so follow package directions closely. Let the mixture stand a few minutes for the water to be absorbed. Then stir the grout one more time and force it into the joints with a rubber float or a large dry firm sponge would also be good for this.

Sweep the rubber float or sponge over each joint diagonally several times until the gaps are filled and level with the surrounding joints. Go over the surface again one final time to scrape up any excess grout. Let the grout cure until a hazy film dries on the surface of the tile and the lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove all traces of the grout.

Wait a couple of hours before you polish the entire area you worked on with a clean, dry cloth to complete the job. Avoid washing or wetting this area of the floor for a couple of days and the job is a good one.

Just a quick reminder the all new Tile and ToolStore is open from the 1st February 2008 and can be found at: www:tileandtoolstore.com top quality 33x33cm ceramic floor tiles just £4.99 per square metre delivered.

Buying Ceramic Tiles

Choosing and Buying Your Tiles:

Tiles walls and floors are available in a large range of colours, sizes and designs. Tiles are produced in ceramic, porcelain, marble, terracotta, vinyl, glass and slate. In Europe tiles are commonly manufactured in the following sizes;100x100, 150x150, 20x150, 200x200, 250x200,300x200, 316x316, 330x250,330x330, 400x250, 400x300, 450x316, 450x450 mm.

Tiles are generally sold by the square metre, unless you are purchasing feature tiles, tread or border tiles

The number of tiles you require will depend on the size of the area being tiled, with 10% extra allowed for breakages. Don’t forget to buy extra tiles if you are using a complex pattern, and also as spares for future repairs/replacements.

Feature Tiles:

· You can use border tiles or dado tiles for a more attractive finish to a plain tiled wall.

· Add interest by introducing features (patterned) tiles between plain tiles.

· Tread tiles are used for added grip on stairs and steps.

· Bull-nosed tiles are used on tops of walls or around bathtubs, window seals, and the edges of counter tops.

Special Tiles

· When floor tiling a ‘wet area’, always use slip–resistant tiles.

· If you are laying floor tiles in high traffic areas, buy tiles that have an abrasion index figure of at least PEI3, preferably PEI4 or 5

· If you are using tiles for outdoors, ensure that tiles are frost resistant.

· Never use wall tiles for flooring, though some floor tiles are suitable for walls, check with your supplier.

How to calculate the area being tiled?

Multiply the width of the area to be tiled by the height for walls, or by the length for floors. Deduct the area of all fixtures (fixed cupboards, units, shower bases, windows etc) from your total area to ascertain the number of square metres required.

How many tiles are needed?

Use the table below to calculate the number of tiles you will need depending on the size of the tile you chose and the size of the area you are tiling. Add an extra 10% to your total to cover breakages, cut tiles and any under calculation. Extra tiles will be required if your tiling area includes a large number of cuts to tile around doorways or fixtures etc and if you have chosen a complex layout pattern.

Area to be tile Tile size being used

100x100 150x150 200x150 200x200 250x200 330x250 330x330 400x300 450x450 1sqm 100 44 33 25 20 12 9 8 5 2sqm 200 88 66 50 40 24 18 16 10 3sqm 300 132 99 75 60 36 27 24 15 4sqm 400 176 132 100 80 48 36 32 20 5sqm 500 220 165 125 100 60 45 40 25 6sqm 600 264 198 150 120 72 54 48 30 7sqm 700 308 231 175 140 84 63 56 35 8sqm 800 352 264 200 160 96 72 64 40 9sqm 900 396 297 225 180 108 81 72 45 10sqm 1000 440 330 250 200 120 90 80 50

When choosing your tiles it is a good idea to visit one of the larger tiles retailers who operate showrooms with room settings and large tiled boards, as a single tile can look very different when it is laid and grouted properly. Tiles UK Ltd an independent retailer has large showrooms in Manchester, Leeds, Warrington and Birmingham. Addresses and opening times can be found on their website at: www.tilesuk.com .

When you have decided on the colour and style/type of tile you need, it is time to shop around for the best price. If you prefer to let your mouse do the walking an excellent place to start on the internet is: www.tileandtoolstore.com here you will find just a limited choice of tiles, but all are exceptional quality and value. One thing to watch out for is the requirement to buy full pallets, which could be as much as 70 cubic yards. Sounds a lot but as the tiles are usually less than half the price, available elsewhere and delivery is free a bit of enterprise may be needed on your part or a really big bathroom.

Choosing the right ceramic tile to buy

Ceramic Tile Selection

Selecting the proper type of ceramic tile for your project is probably the most important installation decision you will make. Here are some tips to help you in your purchase:

• Try to to buy consistently sized tiles, a good tile retailer should be able to give you some guidance on which manufacturer and tile range to use. Ceramic tiles are fired in a kiln and then cooled at varying degrees of temperature and humidity. This expansion and contraction can cause the tiles to vary in size, sometimes by as 5mm or more. Most ceramic tiles on the market will have some variation in size but accept nothing more than an 2mm margin of difference.
• Make sure the ceramic tiles you purchase are of the same "Lot" and "Shade". This will ensure that your flooring was made in the same production batch.
• Unless you plan to purchase a high quality wet saw you should refrain from using fully vitrified porcelain tiles for interior installations. Fully vitrified porcelain tiles are very difficult to cut with accuracy with a tile cutter and this means every cut you make would be with your tile saw.
• Select a ceramic tile that is relatively smooth and has straight, flush edges. This will make your grouting job a whole lot easier.
• For ease of installation use 10cm x 10cm or smaller sized tiles on walls and countertops. Another even easier option would be to use Mosaic tiles where you can almost avoid the need to cut tiles altogether by just cutting through the backing fabric. For floors use 33cm x 33cm or smaller tiles.
• Ceramic tiles with bright reflective surfaces (bright glaze finish) are not recommended for floors as they can pose a slip hazard and they will probably have poor abrasive resistance.

PEI Ratings

Although there are no industry standards, most ceramic tiles are rated for use by the Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) abrasion test.

• PEI 1 - No Foot Traffic:
  Ceramic tile suggested for interior residential and commercial wall applications only.
• PEI 2 - Light Traffic:
  Ceramic tile suggested for interior residential and commercial wall applications and for residential bathroom floor applications only.
• PEI 3 - Light to Moderate Traffic:
  Ceramic tile suggested for residential floor, countertop, and wall applications.
• PEI 4 - Moderate to Heavy Traffic:
  Ceramic tile suggested for residential, medium commercial and light institutional floor and wall applications.
• PEI 5+ - Heavy to Extra Heavy Traffic:
  Ceramic tile suggested for residential, commercial and institutional floor and wall applications subjected to heavy to extra heavy traffic.

Acceptable Outdoor Tile Types

Ceramic tile installed in exterior locations must be able to withstand freeze/thaw conditions meaning they should have an absorption rating of 3% or less. These types of tiles are usually very dense, have greater impact resistance, and increased breaking strength. Install them using a premium quality, latex modified adhesive.

• Vitrified, ceramic tiles having an absorption rating between 0.5 - 3%.
• Impervious (Porcelain), ceramic tiles having an absorption rating between 0.0 - 0.5%.

If price is a factor in your decision to purchase your ceramic tiles then you can do no better than to visit the online tile store at: http://www.tileandtoolstore.com/ for whilst the range of tiles is still limited, quality is high as stock is all imported directly from the new Pamesa Ceramica factory in Brazil.

The best marble tiles in the World

Where The Best Marble Tiles Can Be Found
by: Vanessa Doctor

Marble is considered a metamorphic limestone. It is largely grained and comes in many unique colours and patterns, and is formed from limestone by heat and pressure over the years in the earth's crust. These natural forces cause the limestone to change and vary in texture and appearance. This natural process is called recrystallization.

Materials fossilized in the limestone, along with its original minerals, recrystallize and form large, coarse grains of calcite. Pure white marble results from the metamorphism of pure limestones. The characteristic swirls and hues of many coloured marble types are usually caused by various impurities such as clay, silt, sand, iron oxides, or chert which were originally present as grains or layers in the limestone.

The green coloration is mostly due to serpentine resulting from originally high magnesium limestone or dolostone with silica impurities.

Marbles vary in colour from blurry, milky-white to gray and black, and some varieties have some shades of red, yellow, pink, green, or buff.

The colours, which are mainly caused by the presence of a number impurities, are mostly arranged in bands or patches and add to the beauty of the stone when it is cut and polished. Like all limestones, it is corroded by water and acid fumes and is thus an uneconomical material for use in exposed places and in large cities.

The presence of certain impurities decreases its durability. marble does not split easily into sheets or blocks of equal size and must be mined with care.

The rock may shatter if explosives are used for mining. Blocks of marble are mined and extracted with channeling machines, which cut grooves and holes in the rock. Miners outline a block of marble with rows of grooves and holes.

They then drive wedges into the openings and separate the block from the surrounding rock. The blocks are then cut with saws to the desired shape and size of the block.

Marble was commonly utilized by the ancient Persians, Greeks, Indians and Chinese. Italian artist Michelangelo used marble from Carrara, Italy in a number of sculptures and statues. marble is used in creating statues, buildings, tomb stones, floor tiles, sinks and countertops.

It is soft and is easy to carve or cut into shapes, making it the preferable choice for making statues.

Marble is mined in mountain areas using the quarrying method. It is found in Canada, Italy, Germany, Spain, India and China . Marbles are mined, or quarried, in all parts of the world. The best stocks of marbles in the United States come from the state of Vermont, which extracts large quantities. Other states important as marble producers are Massachusetts, Maryland, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, Missouri, California, Colorado, and Arizona.

Marble could be found almost anywhere in the world. Most marbles are named after the quarries where they are historically found. Some of the more famous quarry locations are listed below.
- Black marble from Kilkenny, Ireland
- Macael from Spain
- Makrana from India
- Vietnam White from Vietnam
- Llano Pink from Central Texas
- Boticena and Onyx(Green) from Pakistan
- Danby from Vermont
- Yule from Colorado
- Royal White from China
- Beijing White from China
- Durango marble from Coyote Quarry, Mexico

About The Author

Vanessa Arellano Doctor
http://marble-tile.xon.us

Tiles and Tiling Tools

Tiles and Tiling Tools

Graph paper is an easy material to get hold of and to use. You can buy graph paper with various sizes of grids; 1/4 inch or 50mm being the most common. Measure the area you are tiling and sketch it so each square on the grid represents 10cm, this should allow you to fit your project on a single A4 sheet of paper.
The only other accessories you will need at this planning stage are a ruler, pencil, and eraser. Graph paper will also come in handy if you are planning to add borders or carry out mixed tile designs; just let each grid represents a tile.
A combination square or a set square can be used for measuring short distances and precisely marking square corners. You can get by with one or the other, but chances are that you will use both of them if they are available. A set square also can double as a straightedge to aid in layout and tile installation.
A tape measure is indispensable for laying out and marking tiles for cutting. You also must have an accurate spirit level to check horizontal and vertical surfaces for plumb and to mark accurate layout lines.
An inexpensive plumb bob is necessary for finding plumb, and a chalk line allows you to quickly mark layout lines. Most chalk lines will perform double duty as plumb bobs. So that you'll be able to clearly see your mark, buy yellow chalk for dark tile and blue chalk for light-coloured tiles.
A layout stick when tiling large, flat surfaces, one of the handiest tools you can use, is one you can make yourself. A layout stick is just a homemade ruler that allows you to lay out an installation without having to measure and mark for each tile location. Line up a row of tiles on a flat surface, with spacers between. Set a straight piece of wood alongside the tiles. Start at one end of the stick and mark the width of the grout joint between each tile.
Tile Nipper for irregular cuts. Score your cut line with a glass or tile cutter. Then nibble off small bits of tile until you remove what you need. It helps to score gridlines in the area you want removed. This will help you keep the nibbled pieces small.Be patient when using a tile nipper, if you take off pieces that are too big you could go beyond your cut line. Then you'll have to start over. Tile nippers will leave jagged edges on the tile so use them in less visible areas or where you'll be covering it with trim, like around plumbing fixtures.Pieces of tile tend to go flying when using a tile nipper so always wear eye protection.
Notched trowels are used to spread and "comb" adhesives onto the surface to be tiled. Both sides of the trowel are notched with either "V" or "square-shaped" notches.Use a square-notched trowel for laying tiles on horizontal surfaces. Use v-notched trowels for laying on vertical surfaces. Trowels also come in different notch depths. Use one that's two-thirds the thickness of the tile you're laying. If you don't want to invest a lot in trowels, you can get less expensive plastic ones from your tile supplier, or may be free ones from your adhesive supplier.Another helpful tool for scooping out adhesives and grout and for spreading adhesives in narrow places is a builder’s margin trowel.
Grout floats are rubber or foam-faced trowels used to force grout into the joints between the tiles. Use sweeping motions diagonally and back and forth to work the grout into the joints. Once the joints are filled, use the straight edge on the side of the float to scrap the excess grout off the tiles. You need to hold the float almost at a 90 degree angle to do this. Again, diagonal motions work best for this. As with notched trowels, you can also buy disposable grout floats from your tile supplier.
Tile Saw If you're losing patience (and tiles) using a tile nipper for irregular cuts, try a tile saw with a carbide-grit blade. This will take a lot longer than with a tile nipper, but it'll give you a cleaner edge and a more accurate cut. Before cutting secure the tile, vices and clamps can be used, set the blade firmly but not too tightly in the frame and apply gentle continuous pressure, push too hard and the blade will bend, lots of sweeps back and forth are better than trying to force a cut.For larger cuts, like around toilets, fittings or supply pipes, use a carbide-tipped hole saw bit with your power drill.
Fixed Rail Manual Tile Cutter there are many of these on the market catering for the “one off” do-it-yourself enthusiast to the pro tiler. Rubi Ltd produce an extensive range of good value reliable models, these can be seen at the online store: www.tileandtoolstore.com . These manual cutters are more or less the same in operation;
1. Mark the point for your required cut line on the tile with a pencil. Place the tile under the two rails aligning your pencil mark with the cutting wheel. Set and lock the guide fence on the cutter and hold your tile against this.
2. Holding the tile in place with one hand grasp the pull down handle with the other. The cutting wheel will now be pressing down on the tile, keeping a steady but not too heavy pressure, push or pull the handle along the guide rails. Making just one good pass is best, but if in doubt a second pass can be made exactly down the same path/line.
3. Snap the tile you have just scored using gradual downward pressure of the handle. If the tile does not easily break along the scored line, you have not used enough pressure or your cutter is blunt.
Wet Tile Cutting Saw the great advantage of the wet saw is that it makes really smooth cuts. When using tile cutters and tile nippers you will get sharp, very sharp edges. These razor sharp edges will give you trouble later when you grout or clean the tiles concerned (and you thought paper cuts were sore). These sharp edges should be smoothed using a rubbing stone or carbide sandpaper to round the offending edge.

Always use safety glasses and hearing protection when using a wet saw. Make sure the blade is in good condition and the water container is filled. Place the tile on the sliding table and lock the fence to hold the tile in place. With the machine turned on and the water running onto the blade, press down on the tile as you slide it gently through, taking great care to keep your fingers away from the blade. Replace the water when required and never the saw unless the water is running, even a few seconds dry cutting will heat the blade dangerously.

Sealing your Tiles and Grout

span style="color:#000099;">Tile and Grout Sealers

There are a number of excellent sealers now on the market. These sealers are a big improvement for use with porous and pale coloured tiles as they impregnate the tile, working there way into the pores of the stone and in effect sealing the tile from the inside out, whilst allowing the surface to breathe.

This should avoid any problems of trapped moisture showing up as a cloudy or milky haze.

A good sealer will not affect the natural matt look of stone tiles and should not darken or change the colour of the tiles.

Sealers are particularly useful for sealing grout, which can quickly become dirty or stained and in damp areas prone to unsightly fungal attack. A well sealed grouting job will respond better to cleaning and it should be possible to bring the finish back to almost new.

Sealers are water, solvent or oil based, with solvent based sealers being the quickest to dry.

Whilst water based products are environmentally better and have little or no smell. For a really effective job, oil and particularly solvent based sealers will give you the very best resistance to stains and mould.

Bathroom Renovation

Bathroom Renovation Ideas – Preparation and Inspiration by: Madonna Jeffries

Are you tired of the look of your current bathroom layout and feel that it needs a total upgrade? If so you are one of the many people who don’t particularly like the way their bathroom looks.

The bathroom is probably the most overlooked room in your home because most people do not feel that the amount of time they spend there warrants the expenditure of money or energy on undertaking a renovation project.

This is in fact quite wrong as a recent study indicates that women will, on average, spend the equivalent of 2 years and 9 months of their lives standing in front of their bathroom mirror fixing their make up and ensuring that they look 'just right' before venturing out of the house.

In reality the bathroom home improvement is easily the best place to start you renovation work as you can accomplish quite a transformation with a little imagination, a splash of flair and, of course, a few basic building skills.

If you are interested in upgrading your bathroom, but really don’t know where to start, do some research so you can consider the options that are open to you.

The ease of undertaking a bathroom renovation is due to the fact that the average bathroom is quite small in size and therefore a fairly modest remodeling program will have some marked results.

Most bathroom renovation ideas are often centered on a replacement of wall and floor tiles as well as the inclusion of new fixtures and fittings.

Don’t be put off attempting the project if one of your bathroom renovation ideas includes enlarging the space.

The chances are that extending the area of you bathroom will not be too difficult as it could be as simple as removing an adjacent closet or a dividing wall. You will be amazed at how even a relatively small increase of the bathroom area can have a remarkable effect on the look and feel of the room.
Summon Up The Courage And Implement Your Bathroom Renovation Ideas! Don’t be put off by the big jobs - stripping down the entire bathroom may look like a complicated job but, in all reality, it is quite simple and requires little more than some hard labor by you (and maybe a friend or two).

If you are ever going to introduce some good bathroom renovation ideas then you have to get out of your comfort zone and learn some of the skills needed to undertake the work.

If you really are a novice when it comes to renovation work, then it may be in your best interest to engage a professional builder for some aspects of the job.

This way you can observe how he approaches the job and you should also be able to throw a few relevant questions his way.

Take time and study how to operate the particular power tools needed on the job. Quite often you can download from the internet some quite well presented instructional guides which show you how to use various power tools.

Before you start the bathroom home improvement ensure that you put together a realistic costing for your bathroom renovation.

Check some of the online specialty bathroom websites and put together a pricing list for the fixtures such as vanity, light and toilet fittings.

We all dream about having gold taps and features in our bathrooms, however, the reality check is that the cost for most people would be prohibitive and well beyond their budget.

When deciding on the look of your bathroom just remember that for many people the bathroom is a private get-away where they like to relax and have a little solitude.

If you want to create a sense of tranquility then you should consider going with a classic style that incorporates crisp colors with minimal clutter. By doing this you can create a soft feeling of light and space so that your bathroom becomes a welcoming retreat.

If, however, you want to make a statement and don’t particularly want to have to queue to get into your bathroom then go crazy with your creativity and splash around as much colour as you like.

Before your bathroom remodeling ideas get the better of you be aware that the whole project will take some time and, unless you engage a professional or take time off from work, there may be some inconvenience while you squeeze the work in at night or during the weekends.

A Word Of Caution Try to adopt a patient approach and don’t be put off if you initially make a few small mistakes.

Even the experts make mistakes at times and even the best bathroom renovation ideas have some inherent problems that will need some corrective action at a later date.

Be patient and most importantly, be happy with the thought you’re your workable bathroom renovation ideas are not so difficult after all. With a little forward planning and creativity your new look private oasis can transform before your eyes.

About The Author
Madonna Jeffries For more details on Bathroom Renovation Ideas and other types of home improvement and house remodeling tips and advice visit http://www.easyhouseimprovement.com/

Plastering Courses

The Plastering Course To Suit Your Needs by: Kirk Smith

There are various types of plastering courses available in England. There are courses for beginners who want to pursue it as a hobby, or want to make it into a career. For tradesmen and builders there are advanced courses who want training for a career in plastering or even specialist plastering.

The Gold trowel Plastering Organization offers specialized courses for certified Plastering courses or Advanced Skimming courses. There is a complete 10-day advanced certified Plastering course which includes written materials and videos before and after the course. The City Guilds has an entire training centre called Able Skills, where plastering is the main subject taught.
There is a course to suit each person's needs, whether you are a beginner or coming in to learn some advanced technology of plastering. The courses are planned with the needs of the students in mind.
There are short courses and the timings are flexible. Courses are also held on weekends; as Able Skills is open all days of the week. Several qualification routes are also available, and there are trainers for every field. They are all experts in this field and have worked several years within the trade. Each one is a qualified teacher as well, so that they can conduct examinations and assess and internally verify the qualification courses.

The students are provided with all the necessary materials and tools. At the training centre there is enough practical training given, and each student works on a portion of a wall or a ceiling. He learns practically everything that he has come to learn and once he leaves, he is in a position to tackle any situation back home.
The Hawk and Trowel Plastering Centre based in Brighton also provides a professional training facility for plastering. Here too there are weekend courses and all the work is taught through a pure practical training program.

The people who visit the courses are varied, from students to tradesmen, from home improvers to property developers. It is possible for anybody to learn the art of plastering. All that you have to do is attend a course and you might even change your career. You need not come in with any experience, only the will to learn and the plan to carry out successfully what you have learnt. For each trainer there are seven students, so that each student has the privilege to enjoy individual attention. The trainers are highly qualified with plenty of experience to their credit.

The atmosphere in these short training programs is relaxed and friendly. All in all it makes a good learning environment. The topics that are covered in the training program are floor screeding, using the plasters , how to fix floating beads to reveals, how to fix different beads, the methods of boarding to bare wall areas, skimming and there are discussions on different backgrounds and types of finishes. The six-week Plastering course will attain you a National Qualification in Plastering. The correct choice and use of tools and electrical equipment is also taught, which will be of help to all, when they work on their own.
About The Author
Kirk Smith Read more about the hottest plastering topics right now by visiting http://www.learnhowtoplaster.com/. The internets leading plastering forum for plasterers. Check out the site right away and ask all the questions you like! Lots of info available.

Laying Natural Stone Tiles

Natural stone tile problems

Whilst natural stone tiles are probably better left to professionals to fix, due to the cost and the inherent risks of cutting and laying. It is not beyond the capabilities of the competent do-it-yourselfer to produce a beautiful job.

If you are installing over a concrete substrate the potential extra weight of natural stone will not be a problem, if laying over boards you must check that the stone + adhesive are not going to be too heavy. On gypsum plasterboard the weight per square metre must not exceed 32 kg, which approximates to a 10mm thick tile. Other job specific boards such as tilebacker and glass reinforced cement boards should cope with heavier weights, but always check with the manufacturer.

With natural stone there is always the risk of staining, particularly with limestone and pale coloured stones to reduce this problem wherever possible use a rapid drying adhesive, where solvent rather than water is the drying agent and less absorbance takes place. With light coloured stone white is usually the best adhesive colour.

Never ever use the old fashioned spot method of applying the adhesive; this always results in voids beneath the tile which is bad for all floor tiles but really bad for natural stone. A further possible problem with spot fixing is for the stone to show shading through from where the adhesive spots were applied. Using the appropriate notched trowel flat spread and then comb the adhesive to cover the entire tile.

Your biggest problem could be the grouting stage, where your beautiful looking natural stone floor is at mortal risk, especially if you have used a porous stone.
First of all search for a grout colour that matches the tile colour as closely as possible, you can try rubbing some dry grout into a joint to test the colour match, this will give you an indication of the final result. If the colour is a close match your problems will be limited.

Secondly sealing your tiles before grouting might not give you the totally natural look you were planning for, but will stop the grout colour migrating into the tile and forming a border shading around each tile.

The risk of migration can be mitigated by using rapid setting grout. Always avoid using grouts that contain any grey Portland cement.

Finally where movement joints are required it normally safe to use neutral curing silicone, but never use acid curing sealants especially with marble and limestone where the acidic chemicals can react with any natural carbonates within the stone. This is unlikely to be unsightly but could cause a bonding problem or dry joint.

Common Ceramic Tile Questions

Ceramic Tile Questions

Q: What is the difference between glazed and unglazed tile?

A: Glazed tile is coated with a surface finish (glaze) fused to the body by firing at very high temperatures. Because of the ease of adding colour, pattern and texture to the glaze, style, colour and design are virtually unlimited. The colour of unglazed tile results from the natural clay of the tile body or pigment added to the clay. The colours are more limited but because that colour extends throughout the tile, wear is not visible.

Q: Will ceramic tile break or chip?

A: Ceramic tile is more susceptible to breaking in carriage and before installation than after. After proper installation, it is very difficult to break or chip tile unless it is hit with a heavy object such as a hammer having a small impact area. Structural breaks can occur if there is movement in the substrate. If damaged, individual tiles can be replaced.

Q: Is ceramic tile cold?

A: Tile is actually the same temperature as the surrounding air. It holds warmth in a sunny room or a cooler temperature in an air conditioned or cold room. Body temperature is usually warmer than the air, and this causes tile to feel cool. Underfloor electric heating is now safe, effective and available for installation by the competent do-it-yourselfer and is available from www.tileandtoolstore.com from £40 per square metre.

Q: Is ceramic tile slippery?

A: Slip-resistance will vary with the type of tile. Ceramic floor tile will have about the same slip-resistance as other hard surface floors such as vinyl or wood. Naturally, if there is liquid spilled on any hard surface floor, the slip-resistance will greatly diminish? Abrasive surfaces are available on many tiles. Keep in mind that the more abrasive a tile surface is, the more difficult maintenance will be. Consider using a mat at entrances and in wet areas.

Q: How durable is ceramic tile?

A: Ceramic tile, properly installed, should last the lifetime of your home with minimum care. Tile will not show wear when used on walls; unglazed floor tile also will not show wear. Glazed floor tile is dependent on the durability of the glaze and body and the amount of traffic to which it is subjected. Most manufacturers do classify the durability of their tile.
Rating 1: Light Traffic (residential bathroom floors) and Counter Tops
Rating 2: Medium-Light Traffic (residential interior floors except kitchens, stairs, landings, and entranceways)
Rating 3: Medium-Heavy Traffic (all residential areas and commercial areas with similar traffic) Rating 4: Heavy Traffic (all residential and most commercial areas)
Rating 5: Heaviest Duty Traffic (all residential and all commercial areas)


Q: Can ceramic tile be used outdoors?

A: There are numerous ceramic tiles that are frost-resistant and are excellent for patios, porches, pool decks, etc. Many unglazed tiles are suitable for exterior use. Their slip-resistance will be dependent on the surface texture, and slip-resistance is important! Glazed, frost-resistant tiles are recommended for vertical exterior surfaces only. The ceramic tile manufacturer will indicate if a particular type of tile is frost-resistant. A frost-resistant installation method is essential.

Q: Do ceramic tile have shade variation?

A: As is true with other quality decorating products such as textiles, carpet, wall coverings, and wood, ceramic tile does have shade variations. Hand-crafted tiles generally have the greatest variation, and this quality contributes to their unique beauty. Samples are meant to represent the tile as adequately as possible but may vary to some degree. Be sure to inspect your tile sample before you place a full order to determine if it meets your approval.

Q: What should I know about grout?

A: Grout, the coloured mortar between tiles, has been drastically improved in recent years. It is available in numerous colours to coordinate with your tile choice. The actual finished grout colour in an installation is affected by moisture, temperature and installation techniques. Because of these variables, the installed shade may differ from a showroom sample. Choose grout colour to blend rather than match. Today, there are grout formulas that contribute to stain-resistance and mildew-resistance. Improved sealers can assist in keeping the grout at its best.

Q: Does ceramic tile require a special floor construction?

A: Standard floor construction of boards laid over floor joists with standard spacing centre with a well secured 3/8" plywood underlayment is usually suitable, always use marine plywood in areas subject to moisture. A clean, structurally sound concrete slab is also suitable and does not require additional underlayment.


Q: Should sealer be used on ceramic tile?

A: Sealer is unnecessary and should never be used on glazed tile. Sealer is often used on unglazed natural clay tile, pavers or unglazed porcelain tile. Some manufacturers of these products recommend a particular sealer. However, in most cases, a good penetrating sealer is advisable. It is usually invisible or provides a soft lustre. Heavy sealers such as urethane are not recommended because of potential scaling or uneven wear. Q: How does the price of ceramic tile compare with other floor coverings? A: The initial installed cost of ceramic tiles may be higher than some other flooring materials. However the new www.tileandtoolstore.com by utilising improved manufacturing technology and reducing marketing and distribution costs have significantly decreased the margin of difference. When considering the true cost comparison, you must look at the life span of ceramic tile. Due to the fact that you probably will never have to replace your tile and the low cost and easy maintenance, ceramic tile is the least expensive of all finishes. Statistics show that an investment in ceramic tile will increase the value of your home.

Tools for Laying Ceramic Tiles

Tile laying tools

Graph paper is an easy material to get hold of and to use. You can buy graph paper with various sizes of grids; 1/4 inch or 50mm being the most common. Measure the area you are tiling and sketch it so each square on the grid represents 10cm, this should allow you to fit your project on a single A4 sheet of paper. The only other accessories you will need at this planning stage are a ruler, pencil, and eraser. Graph paper will also come in handy if you are planning to add borders or carry out mixed tile designs; just let each grid represents a tile.

A combination square or a set square can be used for measuring short distances and precisely marking square corners. You can get by with one or the other, but chances are that you will use both of them if they are available. A set square also can double as a straightedge to aid in layout and tile installation.

A tape measure is indispensable for laying out and marking tiles for cutting. You also must have an accurate spirit level to check horizontal and vertical surfaces and to mark accurate layout lines.

An inexpensive plumb bob is necessary for finding your true verticals, and a chalk line allows you to quickly mark layout lines. Most chalk lines will perform double duty as plumb bobs. So that you'll be able to clearly see your mark, buy yellow chalk for dark tile and blue chalk for light-coloured tiles.

A layout stick when tiling large, flat surfaces, one of the handiest tools you can use, is one you can make yourself. A layout stick is just a homemade ruler that allows you to lay out an installation without having to measure and mark for each tile location. Line up a row of tiles on a flat surface, with spacers between. Set a straight piece of wood alongside the tiles. Start at one end of the stick and mark the width of the grout joint between each tile.

Tile Scorer for a couple of pounds you can buy a perfectly usable tile scorer, with a plastic handle and tungsten carbide tip, replace after each job.

Tile Nipper for irregular cuts. Score your cut line with a glass or tile cutter. Then nibble off small bits of tile until you remove what you need. It helps to score gridlines in the area you want removed. This will help you keep the nibbled pieces small.Be patient when using a tile nipper, if you take off pieces that are too big you could go beyond your cut line. Then you'll have to start over. Tile nippers will leave jagged edges on the tile so use them in less visible areas or where you'll be covering it with trim, like around plumbing fixtures.Pieces of tile tend to go flying when using a tile nipper so always wear eye protection.

Notched trowels are used to spread and "comb" adhesives onto the surface to be tiled. Both sides of the trowel are notched with either "V" or "square-shaped" notches. Trowels also come in different notch depths. Use one that's two-thirds the thickness of the tile you're laying. If you don't want to invest a lot in trowels, you can get less expensive plastic ones from your tile supplier, or may be free ones from your adhesive supplier.Another helpful tool for scooping out adhesives and grout and for spreading adhesives in narrow places is a builder’s margin trowel.

Grout floats are rubber or foam-faced trowels used to force grout into the joints between the tiles. Use sweeping motions diagonally and back and forth to work the grout into the joints. Once the joints are filled, use the straight edge on the side of the float to scrap the excess grout off the tiles. You need to hold the float almost at a 90 degree angle to do this. Again, diagonal motions work best for this. As with notched trowels, you can also buy disposable grout floats from your tile supplier.

Tile Saw If you're losing patience (and tiles) using a tile nipper for irregular cuts, try a tile saw with a carbide-grit blade. This will take a lot longer than with a tile nipper, but it'll give you a cleaner edge and a more accurate cut. Before cutting secure the tile, vices and clamps can be used, set the blade firmly but not too tightly in the frame and apply gentle continuous pressure, push too hard and the blade will bend, lots of sweeps back and forth are better than trying to force a cut.For larger cuts, like around toilets, fittings or supply pipes, use a carbide-tipped hole saw bit with your power drill.

Fixed Rail Manual Tile Cutter there are many of these on the market catering for the “one off” do-it-yourself enthusiast to the pro tiler. Rubi Ltd produce an extensive range of good value reliable models, these can be seen at the online store: http://www.tileandtoolstore.com/ .

These manual cutters are more or less the same in operation;
1. Mark the point for your required cut line on the tile with a pencil. Place the tile under the two rails aligning your pencil mark with the cutting wheel. Set and lock the guide fence on the cutter and hold your tile against this.
2. Holding the tile in place with one hand grasp the pull down handle with the other. The cutting wheel will now be pressing down on the tile, keeping a steady but not too heavy pressure, push or pull the handle along the guide rails. Making just one good pass is best, but if in doubt a second pass can be made exactly down the same path/line.
3. Snap the tile you have just scored using gradual downward pressure of the handle. If the tile does not easily break along the scored line, you have not used enough pressure or your cutter is blunt.

Wet Tile Cutting Saw the great advantage of the wet saw is that it makes really smooth cuts. When using tile cutters and tile nippers you will get sharp, very sharp edges. These razor sharp edges will give you trouble later when you grout or clean the tiles concerned (and you thought paper cuts were sore). These sharp edges should be smoothed using a rubbing stone or carbide sandpaper to round off the edge.

Always use safety glasses and hearing protection when using a wet saw. Make sure the blade is in good condition and the water container is filled. Place the tile on the sliding table and lock the fence to hold the tile in place. With the machine turned on and the water running onto the blade, press down on the tile as you slide it gently through, taking great care to keep your fingers away from the blade. Replace the water when required and never the saw unless the water is running, even a few seconds dry cutting will heat the blade dangerously

Tile Grouting Tip

Further tile grouting tip

I have just been given a further grouting tip that I am sure will work a treat, destroy your marriage possibly, but it sounds like a real help.

Beg or borrow a cake decorating or icing bag, there will be various metal tips with the bag, choose the one nearest in diameter to your required tile joint width.

Fill the bag with your freshly mixed grout, place the tip on the joint and squeeze moving the bag along the joint. With a bit of practice you should be able to fill the void with little or no overspill. it is easier to grout whole rows, rather than moving around each tile.

This is great for keeping porous tiles grout free or working joints that are difficult to get at.

Let the joints harden a little before shaping the grout into the joint, the wrong end of a toothbrush is good for this, but don't borrow the toothbrush from the same person you borrowed the icing bag from. A simple error, but one that could cost you dear.

Finally after about 30 minutes sweep the joints with a stiff brush,that toothbrush you just wrecked would be good.

Grouting your tiles

Tiling tips - Grouting

• For a preview of how the finished grouting job will look sprinkle a teaspoon of dry grout in the grout lines between tiles and smooth it down with your finger. This will give you a good idea of how your grout will look like when it has been installed. If in doubt try various grout colours before you actually start your final grouting.
  
• Never ever throw or wash any left over grout, down a sink or down any drain, toilet or bath plug hole. Grout will live happily forever after on your pipes and in your traps and ruin your plumbing. It is a great idea to use old buckets and old materials to grout with and dispose of everything in your bin or skip when you are done.
  
• Always thoroughly clean grout from the surface of all tiles before it finally sets. Set grout is nearly impossible to remove from tiles… period.
  
• When grouting porous tiles like slate, marble or terracotta sponging or cleaning the setting grout off the tiles may leave grout residue on the tile causing it to look matt and dull. To prevent this, always seal the tiles before you commence the grouting procedure.
  
• For cementitious grouts a soft grout float or hard sponge can be used to fill the tile joints, when using an epoxy resin grout a stiffer rubber float will be better for ensuring the joints are properly filled.
  
• With epoxy resin grouts take extra care when cleaning off the tiles and always go back to the job a second time to make sure the first clean off was effective.
  
• Never rush into the grouting, leave at least one day for the tile adhesive to dry before starting your grouting and you will need to leave three days for the adhesive to dry when you have tiled over other tiles. Whilst not rushing, if you want to retain a good watertight grouting job do avoid taking a shower for two weeks (in the tiled area that is).

Installing your own underfloor heating

Electric under tile heating

Radiant heat underfloor systems are now available for DIY installation. By heating your floor tiles you gently and economically warm the tiles and all surrounding air creating natural warmth with very little temperature variation compared to the convective heated water created by central heating systems.

Traditional central heating work by heating the air as it passes over the radiators. This convective warmth rises as warm air currents creating a heat differential with the warmest air at ceiling level. This leads to a “hot head/cold feet” scenario and a generally stuffy environment.

Radiant heat is a more efficient and healthy form of heat distribution allowing the air temperature in the room to be set at lower levels resulting in energy savings and as the air circulates less there is less airborne dust increasing comfort levels not only for allergy sufferers but everyone in the room.

Underfloor heating systems are invisible when installed and silent in operation allowing complete flexibility in designing your room layout. There are two popular formats; underfloor heating mats and underfloor heating cables.

The heating mat is a simple to install self adhesive mesh with the heating cables pre-attached. Cables allow more flexibility, which may be necessary in irregular shaped areas, allowing heating to be extended into recesses and also the possibility to vary heat output in different parts of the room by increasing/decreasing cable density..

Heating mats and cables can be installed directly over timber or solid floors and work great under ceramic floor tiles, during installation the underfloor temperature sensor regulates heat via a wall mounted thermostat/timer offering full 24 hour control, 7 days a week with override functions.

Running costs recent developments have lead to the installation of tile backer boards which significantly reduce heat loss into the subfloor and reducing warm up time and energy consumption. Generally a small bathroom would cost around 7p a day to heat to a comfortable temperature, this is however only an approximation and depends on your cost per KwH and any particular heat loss problems.

Heating mats are generally sold in 500mm widths and a range of lengths. It will be necessary for you to sketch out the floor plan of your application, allowing for any floor mounted furniture and fixtures like bath and shower trays. It is important that you establish where the mat will lie and the total length that you will need as this cannot be shortened and any over length piece will have to be replaced.

Installation a groove will have to be cut in the floor to accommodate the temperature sensor and its protective conduit, which should be positioned about 500mm from the wall. The floor should be prepared as normal or tiling, ensure that no sharp protrusions will damage the mat or cable.
Lay the mat down loose without fixing to make sure that it fits and there are no nasty surprises. When rolling out for this test flip the mat over at the end of each run, you can safely cut through the mesh matting being very careful not to cut through the cable (usually red or orange). Turn the mat through 180 degrees and run back alongside the previous run keeping a minimum space of 50mm between cable loops. When satisfied with the layout you can glue the matting to the floor using the integral self adhesive pads. For any awkward areas it is permissible to cut the cable free from the mesh and carefully stick this to the floor with adhesive tape, keeping the loops more or less in pattern.

A hot glue gun will be useful to ensure that any edging pieces without adhesive pads are glued down to prevent lifting.

Now is probably a good time to call in an electrician to test the resistance against the labelled value. Your qualified electrician can now make the connection to the mains supply and install the thermostat (outside the room of course if it is a bathroom). A final test of resistance and continuity should put your mind at rest, before turning off the current and with covering tile adhesive and completing the job, be careful to avoid damaging the cable as you lay the tiles and try to avoid any air gaps or voids between the tiles and the mat.

Finally your installation should be protected by an RCD for safe operation. Do not heat up your system until a suitable time for drying out off the adhesive; consult the manufacturer if you are in doubt.

Underfloor cabling kits are available for loose cable installations, these comprise of a drum of cable, Thermostat Programmer, fixing tape, floor sensor probe and full instructions. With a higher level of skill required perhaps it would be better to use a professional installer for your first loose cable job?

Laying Floor Tiles

Laying Floor Tiles

Setting out

If you have one wall that is more visible than the others, you will want your tile to be square to this wall. Snap a chalk line or draw a line out 90 degrees from the centre of this wall to the opposite wall.

Next, find the centre of this line and draw a line perpendicular to it that runs into the remaining two walls. Double check that these lines are perfectly square; these are your starting reference lines.

If your walls are all equally visible, draw lines between the midpoints of the room's opposing walls. This should give you two perpendicular lines crossing at the centre point of the room.

These 90 degree reference lines are the key to a good layout.
Tiles looks best if it's laid out in straight line and square to the walls. That requires a bit of layout prior to installation. In a perfect world, all walls would be straight and square. Unfortunately this is not usually the case. Everyone will need to evaluate their own circumstances to determine the best layout for their tile floor.

If you have one wall that is definitely more visible than the others, you want your tile to be square to this wall. Snap a chalk line or draw a line out 90 degrees from the centre of this wall to the opposite wall.
Next, find the centre of this line and draw a line perpendicular to it that runs into the remaining two walls. Double check that these lines are perfectly square; these are your starting reference lines.

Lay out a test row of tiles along each reference line to see how they lay out. Be sure to account for the thickness of the grout lines.Check the size of the tiles at the end of the rows. If they end up being less than half their original size you should shift the row either way half a tile's width.If both ends of a row are visible, you'll want the end tiles to be the same size. If only one end of a row is visible you'll probably want to start there with full tiles. Smaller cut tiles can be
hidden behind doors or cabinets. Snap or draw new reference lines to accommodate the adjusted layout. Again, make sure these lines are square.

While professional tile setters may only need a couple of reference lines to set tiles evenly, for do-it-yourself tilers the more lines the better. Laying out sections, or a grid pattern, will help you keep the tile straight and square. You'll also find that it's easier to work at one small section at a time when laying the tiles. From the intersection of your new reference lines, lay out a small section of tiles (about 1 or 2 square metres). Use tile spacers or leave enough room for the grout lines.
Measure this section, and then draw a grid of lines across your whole floor based on these measurements.

The sections against the walls may not be full sections; this is ok. Now you can set your tile one section at a time and maintain your straight lines.

Common Types of Floor Tile

Floor tile types:

Glazed Ceramic – Clay tiles with a liquid glass coating, water resistant available in almost all colours and textures. When choosing a ceramic floor tile make sure that it is made to cope with amount and weight of traffic it will have to handle, all tiles will have a PEI rating:

o PEI I: Floor coverings in areas that are walked on essentially with soft soled footwear or bare feet without scratching dirt (e.g. residential bathrooms and bedrooms without direct access from outside).

o PEI II: Floor coverings that are walked on by soft soled or ‘normal’ footwear with, at the most, occasional small amounts of scratching dirt (e.g. rooms in living areas of homes but with the exception of kitchens, entrances and other rooms which may have a lot of traffic).

o PEI III: Floor coverings in areas that, with normal footwear are walked on more often with small amounts of scratching dirt (e.g. residential kitchens, halls, corridors, balconies).

o PEI IV: Floor coverings in areas that are walked on by regular traffic with some scratching dirt so that the conditions are more severe than class III (e.g. entrances, commercial kitchens, hotels).

o PEI V: Floor coverings that are subject to severe pedestrian traffic over sustained periods with some scratching dirt, so that the conditions are the most severe for which glazed floor tiles may be suitable (e.g. public areas such as shopping centres, hotel foyers).

For cutting, as some ceramic floor tiles are extremely dense and hard and the glaze on them is also very durable. It may be that they can only be cut with a diamond wet saw. Commonly ceramic tile can be scored with a glass cutter and then cracked along the cut line with relative ease, or for a larger number of cuts any suitable commercial tile cutter can be used. For fixing use a rapid or normal setting floor tile adhesive. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions

Quarry – quarry tiles are a durable tile normally made from extruded red clay. They are usually vitreous and most suitable for outdoor use. No two tiles will exactly the same and there will often be slight differences in size and thickness. They are typically unsealed and their slip resistance makes them suitable patios and paths. However being unglazed they will be susceptible to stains.
Use a wet saw for cutting and latex reinforced cement for fixing.

Porcelain – Porcelain tiles are very durable and can be used instead of marble and granite tiles where waterproofing or stain resistance is needed. Porcelain can be used for internal and external floors and comes in a wide variety of colours and styles. Being hard throughout a diamond tipped wet saw will be needed for cutting.

Mosaic – Mosaic tiles being generally in the size range 1.5 x 1.5cm to 5.0 x 5.0cm are normally available in “sheets” 30 x 30cm upwards and can be made from ceramic, porcelain, glass and stone. They are relatively easy to install, the smaller size tiles in particular being suitable for craft knife or scissor cutting of the paper or textile backing sheet. If your mosaics are translucent be sure to use white cement so the clarity of the colour is not compromised.

Types of Floor Tile

Floor tile types:

Glazed Ceramic – Clay tiles with a liquid glass coating, water resistant available in almost all colours and textures. When choosing a ceramic floor tile make sure that it is made to cope with amount and weight of traffic it will have to handle, all tiles will have a PEI rating:

o PEI I: Floor coverings in areas that are walked on essentially with soft soled footwear or bare feet without scratching dirt (e.g. residential bathrooms and bedrooms without direct access from outside).

o PEI II: Floor coverings that are walked on by soft soled or ‘normal’ footwear with, at the most, occasional small amounts of scratching dirt (e.g. rooms in living areas of homes but with the exception of kitchens, entrances and other rooms which may have a lot of traffic).

o PEI III: Floor coverings in areas that, with normal footwear are walked on more often with small amounts of scratching dirt (e.g. residential kitchens, halls, corridors, balconies).

o PEI IV: Floor coverings in areas that are walked on by regular traffic with some scratching dirt so that the conditions are more severe than class III (e.g. entrances, commercial kitchens, hotels).

o PEI V: Floor coverings that are subject to severe pedestrian traffic over sustained periods with some scratching dirt, so that the conditions are the most severe for which glazed floor tiles may be suitable (e.g. public areas such as shopping centres, hotel foyers).

For cutting, as some ceramic floor tiles are extremely dense and hard and the glaze on them is also very durable. It may be that they can only be cut with a diamond wet saw. Commonly ceramic tile can be scored with a glass cutter and then cracked along the cut line with relative ease, or for a larger number of cuts any suitable commercial tile cutter can be used. For fixing use a rapid or normal setting floor tile adhesive. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions

Quarry – quarry tiles are a durable tile normally made from extruded red clay. They are usually vitreous and most suitable for outdoor use. No two tiles will exactly the same and there will often be slight differences in size and thickness. They are typically unsealed and their slip resistance makes them suitable patios and paths. However being unglazed they will be susceptible to stains.
Use a wet saw for cutting and latex reinforced cement for fixing.

Porcelain – Porcelain tiles are very durable and can be used instead of marble and granite tiles where waterproofing or stain resistance is needed. Porcelain can be used for internal and external floors and comes in a wide variety of colours and styles. Being hard throughout a diamond tipped wet saw will be needed for cutting.

Mosaic – Mosaic tiles being generally in the size range 1.5 x 1.5cm to 5.0 x 5.0cm are normally available in “sheets” 30 x 30cm upwards and can be made from ceramic, porcelain, glass and stone. They are relatively easy to install, the smaller size tiles in particular being suitable for craft knife or scissor cutting of the paper or textile backing sheet. If your mosaics are translucent be sure to use white cement so the clarity of the colour is not compromised.

Tiling

TILING

It is commonly thought that professional tilers must be hired to install ceramic tiles. It is assumed that it takes years of practise and special tools to achieve that perfect finish. Years ago this might have been the case, but new tiles, tools and techniques have made tiling easier for the do-it-yourself amateur.
Tiles installation still requires patience and some basic skills, but with the right information, proper tools and correct materials, homeowners can now achieve real professional looking jobs all on their own.
Even if you decide not to do the job yourself a little knowledge of new materials and techniques available will help you manage the job effectively, finding the right contractor and getting the result you want at the price you want.
Later we will discuss the types of tile available and the areas in which they should be used, we will also discus the skills needed for the various options to help you access whether you feel you have the skills and the time to tackle the job yourself.
We will cover some of the basic tiling skills and gain an understanding of the steps necessary to complete various tiling projects.
Finally we will deal with “maintenance and repair” to make your existing tile installations look like almost new again and to ensure that your new installations continue to look their best.

SAFETY

Preparation is the key to a successful tiling job. It is important that your first consideration when planning or starting a new tiling project is safety. Take the time to fully read all instructions supplied with your materials and tools, take special note of any warnings given.
Never use tools that are in poor condition or are need of sharpening, do not use electrical tools in wet areas and make sure your work area is well lit and ventilated. Mortars, grouts, adhesives and sealants can contain compounds that can irritate the skin or worse solvents that can damage your lungs and eyes. Always wear a good set of gloves, a filter mask and protective eyewear.
When cutting, drilling, breaking or removing tiles sharp shards of tile will most likely fly through the air. Any unprotected skin, especially eyes will be vulnerable and protective clothing and eyewear is essential.
Avoid carrying any sharp objects in your pockets, a tool belt will prove helpful for carrying and quickly locating the tools you need. Avoid loose clothing and tie up your hair if appropriate.
Keep an adequate first aid kit to hand and invest in a good pair of knee pads, tiling often involves a lot of kneeling and tile pieces are very uncomfortable to kneel on.

TILES

Tiles have been around a long time and many fine examples are to be found in early Roman remains in the UK. With proven durability and limitless colours and finishes available tiles are now more popular than ever.
Thanks to the new tile and tool store at: http://www.tileandtoolstore.com/ tiles and tools are now well within the budget and capability of all do-it-yourself enthusiasts.
Whether you want a traditional or a contemporary finish to your bathroom, kitchen, living room, hall or conservatory you will find a limitless selection of colours, textures and sizes available, your biggest challenge will making your final choice of tile.
Perhaps the easiest way to plan your project will be to visit one of the larger tile showrooms, where a full range of tiles will be available to see and touch and room settings and tiled boards will give you inspiration and ideas. One of the finest showrooms for variety and value is http://www.tilesuk.com/ visit their site for details of their nearest showroom.
Once you have chosen the general colour and style of tile you want do your price comparison, the internet is a good tool for quick browsing and http://www.google.com/ is still the best search engine around.
Manufacturing the tile:A glazed tile consists of two quite different parts, the backing or " body," and the glaze; and naturally the body is made first, and the glaze applied afterwards. The body of a glazed tile consists of one or more kinds of clay, usually with an admixture of certain other substances. The standard white body is used in over ninety per cent of glazed tiles, in the UK there are two kinds of clay used – china clay and ball clay – in conjunction with two other materials, flint and Cornish stone. China clay is clay in its purest form. It gets its English name from the country where it was used. The principal source of supply is Cornwall, where it is found in great abundance. Ball clay, which comes chiefly from the shires of Devon and Dorset, differs from China clay in that it contains certain organic impurities.
The firing of the tile, for five days the temperature of the firing oven will rise steadily till it stands at about 1,250 degrees centigrade – slightly above the melting point of cast iron. The heat will then be allowed to die down for about two or three days.
After their first firing, tiles destined for glazing are known as "biscuit" tiles; and the same term is applied to the first firing itself –"biscuit" firing. This is curious, since biscuit – from the French bis cuit – means twice baked, the original edible biscuits having been so named because they were baked first on one side and then, after being turned over, on the other. At this stage of our process, when the firing of green ware has just been completed, we come upon the essential difference between glazed tile and unglazed tile manufacture.Glazed tiles will have to go through a second main stage of the process – that of the glazing. The glaze is simply a form of glass, so that this process is carried out in what is in effect a miniature glass factory. Here such materials as felspar, China clay, flint, soda, potash, lime, and oxide of lead are mixed together in carefully determined proportions, placed in a special form of kiln, and fired to a white heat. The molten glass thus formed is run off into water, by which means it is suddenly and violently chilled. Making it more suitable for grinding, than if the liquid had been allowed to cool gradually. The grinding is done in rubber-lined cylinders; and plenty of water is introduced to form a "slop" or thick liquid. There are of course many types of glaze, some will fire clear, some opaque, some bright, some matt. The different colours are obtained by adding to the "slop" glaze certain staining materials, notably certain metallic oxides such as those of copper, manganese, iron, cobalt, and uranium. The purpose of the glaze in tile manufacture is both utilitarian and aesthetic: utilitarian in that it seals the pores of the biscuit, thus providing a tile that does not harbour dirt and is therefore hygienic and aesthetic endowing the tile with a pleasing, often a very beautiful finish.
The firing by which the applied glaze is fused to the face of the biscuit is known as the "glost" firing – the firing, that is, of the "glost" (i.e., the glossed or glazed) ware. The final process the glost firing can take up to 40 hours to produce the glazed ceramic tile to which we are all now familiar.
Tiles have been a popular flooring choice for many years, recently improved glazing, sealing and anti-slip techniques have significantly increased their range of usage. In addition to tile improvements under-floor heating technologies have opened up additional wonderful new opportunities for their usage in bathrooms and especially conservatories, where they provide an easily cleaned and very durable finish.